Wanderings in Ireland

Wanderings in Ireland

Author:
Michael Myers Shoemaker
Author:
Michael Myers Shoemaker
Format:
epub
language:
English

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Author: Shoemaker, Michael Myers, 1853-1924
Ireland — Description and travel
Wanderings in Ireland


By M. M. SHOEMAKER


ISLANDS OF THE SOUTHERN SEAS
  With 80 Illustrations. Second Edition. Large 8vo. Gilt top   $2.25
QUAINT CORNERS OF ANCIENT EMPIRES
  With 47 Illustrations. Large 8vo. Gilt top   $2.25
THE GREAT SIBERIAN RAILWAY FROM PETERSBURG TO PEKING
  With 30 Illustrations and a Map. Large 8vo net, $2.00
THE HEART OF THE ORIENT
  With 52 Illustrations. Large 8vo net, $2.50
WINGED WHEELS IN FRANCE
  With about 60 Illustrations. Large 8vo net, $2.50
WANDERINGS IN IRELAND
  With 72 Illustrations. Large 8vo net,  
PALACES AND PRISONS OF MARY QUEEN OF SCOTS
  With about 60 Illustrations. Large 8vo
Large Paper Edition. 4o
net,
net,
$5.00
$12.00

G. P. PUTNAM’S SONS

New York London

“The Harp of Erin”
From the original painting by T. Buchanan Read in possession
of the author


WANDERINGS
IN
IRELAND

BY
MICHAEL MYERS SHOEMAKER
Author of “Islands of the Southern Seas,”
“Winged Wheels in France,” etc.
Illustrated



G. P. PUTNAM’S SONS
NEW YORK AND LONDON
The Knickerbocker Press
1908


Copyright, 1908
BY
MICHAEL MYERS SHOEMAKER
The Knickerbocker Press, New York


TO MY AUNT
ANNA L. SHOEMAKER
THESE NOTES ARE AFFECTIONATELY
DEDICATED


PREFACE

Are you minded for a jaunt through the island of Erin where tears and smiles are near related and sobs and laughter go hand in hand? We will walk, and will take it in donkey-cart and jaunting-car—by train and in motor-cars—and if you suit yourself you will suit me.
Leaving Dublin we will circle northward, with a visit to Tanderagee Castle and the tomb of St. Patrick—God bless him,—then on past the Causeway and down to Derry, and so into the County of Mayo, where in the midst of a fair you will encounter the wildest “Konfusion” and will be introduced to the gentleman who pays the rent.
In the silence and solitudes of the island of Achill you will see tears and hear sobs as you listen to the keening for the dead. Near the island of Clare, Queen Grace O’Malley will almost order you away, as she did her husband, and your motor with all its wings out will roll through the grand scenery of the western coast—now down by the ocean and then far up amidst the sombre mountains—Kylemore Castle and quaint Galway, Leap Castle—ghost-haunted—and moated Ffranckfort, Holy Cross and the Rock of Cashel—will pass in stately array and be succeeded by a glimpse of army life at Buttevant, and a dinner at Doneraile Court, where you will hear of the only woman Free Mason. Killarney will follow with its music and legends, and Cork and Fermoy, and so on and into the County of Wexford, where you will rush through the lanes and byways and will scare many old ladies—driving as many donkeys—almost into Kingdom Come. You will be welcomed at Bannow House and entertained in that quaintest of all earthly dwellings, “Tintern Abbey,” which was a ruin when the family moved into it more than three centuries ago. You will visit the buried city of Bannow and pass on to where Moore watched the “Meeting of the Waters.” You will visit in stately mansions, and go with a wild rush to the races at the Curragh. At Jigginstown House you will be reminded of the cowardice of a king, and as you bid farewell to Ireland you will lay a wreath on the grave of Daniel O’Connell,—all this and much more if you are so minded.
M. M. S.   
   Union Club, New York, January 1, 1908.


CONTENTS

PAGE
CHAPTER I
Welcome to Ireland. Quaint People of Dublin. Packing the Motors. Departure. Tara Hill. Its History and Legends. Ruins at Trim. Tombs of the Druids. Battle-field of the Boyne. 1
CHAPTER II
Through Newry to Tanderagee Castle. Life in the Castle. Excursions to Armagh. Its History. The English in Armagh. 15
CHAPTER III
Through Newcastle to Downpatrick. Grave of St. Patrick. His Life and Work. The Old Grave Digger. Belfast and Ballygalley Bay. O’Halloran, the Outlaw. 25
CHAPTER IV
Ballycastle to the Causeway. Prosperity of Northern Ireland. Bundoran. Gay Life in County Mayo. Mantua House. Troubles in Roscommon. Wit of the People. Irish Girls. Emigration to America. Episode of the Horse. People of the Hills. Chats by the Wayside. Mallaranny. 34
CHAPTER V
The Island of Achill. Picturesque Scenery. Poverty of the People. “Keening” for the Dead. “The Gintleman who pays the Rint.” Superstitious Legends. 53
CHAPTER VI
Monastery of Burrishoole. Queen Grace O’Malley and her Castle of Carrig-a-Hooly. Her Appearance at Elizabeth’s Court. Dismissal of her Husband. Wild Scenery of the West Coast. The Ancient Tongue. Recess. Kylemore Castle. Crazy Biddy. 77
CHAPTER VII
The Ancient City of Galway. Quaint People. Curious Houses. Vile Hotel. Parsonstown. Wingfield House. Leap Castle, and its Ghosts. Ffranckfort Castle. Clonmacnoise. Holy Cross Abbey. 94
CHAPTER VIII
The Rock of Cashel. Its Cathedral, Palace, and Round Tower—Its History and Legends. Kilmalloch, its Ruins and History. The Desmonds. Horse Fair at Buttevant. 119
CHAPTER IX
Buttevant Barracks. Army Life. Mess-room Talk. Condition of the Barracks. Balleybeg Abbey. Old Church. Native Wedding. Kilcoman Castle, Spenser’s Home. Doneraile Court. Mrs. Aldworth, the only Woman Freemason. Irish Wit. Regimental Plate. Departure from the Barracks. 132
CHAPTER X
Route to Killarney. Country Estates. Singular Customs. Picturesque Squalor. Peace of the Lakes. Innisfallen. The Legend of “Abbot Augustine.” His Grave. “Dennis,” the “Buttons,” and his Family Affairs. Motors in the Gap of Dunloe. 161
CHAPTER XI
Kenmare and Herbert Demesnes. Old Woman at the Gates. Route to Glengariff. Bantry Bay. Boggeragh Mountains. Duishane Castle. The Carrig-a-pooka and its Legend. Macroom Castle and William Penn. Cork. Imperial Hotel. “Ticklesome” Car Boy. The Races and my Brown Hat. Route to Fermoy. Breakdown. Clonmel and its “Royal Irish.” Ride to Waterford. 170
CHAPTER XII
Ancient Waterford. History. Reginald’s Tower. Franciscan Friary. Dunbrody Abbey. New Ross. Bannow House. Its “Grey Lady.” Legend of the Wood Pigeon. Ancient Garden. Buried City of Bannow. Dancing on the Tombs. Donkeys and Old Women. Tintern Abbey and its Occupants. Quaint Rooms and Quainter Stories. Its History and Legends. The Dead man on the Dinner Table. The Secret of the Walls. The Illuminated Parchment. The Sealed Library. Ruined Chapel. King Charles’s Clothes. Is History False or True? 181
CHAPTER XIII
Return to Ireland. Illness. Conditions on the Great Liners. The Quay at Cork “of a Saturday Evening.” En route once more. The Old Lady and the Donkey. Barracks at Fermoy. Killshening House, Abandoned Seat of the Roche Family. Fethard. Quaint Customs. The Man in the Coffin. “Curraghmore House” and its Great Kennels. Its Legends, Ghosts, and History. Lady Waterford. Oliver Cromwell at the Castle. The Marquis in the Dungeon. 209
CHAPTER XIV
Departure from Fethard. A Dead Horse and a Lawsuit. Approach to Dublin. Estate of Kilruddery. The Swan as a Fighter. Glendalough, its Ruins and History. Tom Moore and his Tree in Ovoca. Advantages of Motor Travel. Superstition of the Magpie. A Boy, a Cart, and a Black Sheep. The Goose and the Motor. 225
CHAPTER XV
The Lunatic. Insanity and its Causes in Ireland. The Usual Old Lady and Donkey. Sunshine and Shadow. Clonmines and its Seven Churches. The Crosses around the Holy Tree. Baginbun and the Landing of the English. The Bull of Pope Adrian. Letter of Pope Alexander. Protest of the Irish Princes. Legends. Death of Henry II. 243
CHAPTER XVI
Wild Times in Ireland. Landlord and Tenant. Evictions. Boycott at Bannow House. The Parson and the Legacy. The Priest and the Whipping. Burial in Cement. Departure from Bannow House. Kilkenny and her Cats. The Mountains of Wicklow. Powerscourt and a Week-End. Run to Dublin and an Encounter by the Way. The Irish Constabulary. Motor Runs in the Mountains. Lord H——. 260
CHAPTER XVII
Dublin. Derby Day and the Rush to the Curragh. An Irish Crowd. The Kildare Street Club and Club Life. Jigginstown House and its History. The Cowardice of a King. The Old Woman on the Tram Car. Parnell. The Grave of Daniel O’Connell. 276

ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE
The Harp of Erin Frontispiece
  From the original painting by T. Buchanan Read, in the possession of the author  
Statue of St. Patrick on the Hill of Tara 4
Castle of King John at Trim 8
Monument on the Battle-field of the Boyne 12
Tanderagee Castle, Irish Seat of the Duke of Manchester 16
Chapel, Tanderagee Castle 20
Drawing-room, Tanderagee Castle 24
Terrace, Tanderagee Castle 28
Tomb of St. Patrick at Downpatrick 32
A Cabin in the North 36
A Woman of the North 40
Mantua House, Roscommon 44
Ballina, a Typical Irish Town 48
A Glimpse of Achill 52
Slievemore Mountain, and Dugort, Achill 56
Fisherfolk of Achill 60
A Lonely Road in Connemara 64
Kylemore Castle, Connemara 68
Crazy Biddy 72
The Lynch House, Galway 76
Abbey of St. Dominick, Lorrha, Ancient Burial-place of the Carrolls 80
Leap Castle, Court Side 84
Leap Castle, Park Side 88
Moat of Ffranckfort Castle 92
Ffranckfort Castle 96
Clonmacnoise 100
Abbey of the Holy Cross 104
Rock of Cashel 108
Cormac’s Chapel, Cashel 112
Cross of Cashel, and Throne of the Kings
of Munster
116
Ancient Gateway, Kilmalloch 120
Dominican Abbey, Kilmalloch 124
Buttevant Barracks 128
Dinner, Buttevant Barracks 132
Buttevant, County Cork 136
Kilcoman Castle, Spenser’s Home 140
Doneraile Court, County Cork 144
Room in Doneraile Court where Mrs. Aldworth
Hid
148
The Hon. Mrs. Aldworth, the only Woman
Freemason
152
The Lake, Doneraile Park 156
Mallow Castle, County Cork 160
Irish Cottage, County Kerry
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