Italian Highways and Byways from a Motor Car

Italian Highways and Byways from a Motor Car

Author:
M. F. Mansfield
Author:
M. F. Mansfield
Format:
epub
language:
English

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Author: Mansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco), 1871-
Italy — Description and travel
Italian Highways and Byways from a Motor Car


Every attempt has been made to replicate the original as printed.
No attempt has been made to correct or normalize the spelling of non-English words.
Some typographical errors have been corrected; a list follows the text.
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(etext transcriber’s note)

Italian Highways and Byways
From a Motor Car

WORKS OF
FRANCIS MILTOUN
Rambles on the Riviera $2.50
Rambles in Normandy 2.50
Rambles in Brittany 2.50
The Cathedrals and Churches of the Rhine 2.50
The Cathedrals of Northern France 2.50
The Cathedrals of Southern France 2.50
In the Land of Mosques and Minarets 3.00
Castles and Chateaux of Old Touraine and the Loire Country 3.00
Castles and Chateaux of Old Navarre and the Basque Provinces 3.00
Italian Highways and Byways from a Motor Car 3.00
The Automobilist Abroad net 3.00
  Postage Extra
L. C. PAGE & COMPANY
New England Building, Boston, Mass.

I t a l i a n   H i g h w a y s   a n d
Byways   from   a   Motor   Car


B y   F r a n c i s   M i l t o u n

O. N. I.

Author of “Castles and Chateaux of Old Touraine,” “Castles and
Chateaux of Old Navarre,” “In the Land of Mosques and
Minarets,” etc.

With Pictures
B y   B l a n c h e   M c M a n u s


Boston
L.   C.   P A G E   &   C O M P A N Y
1909

Copyright, 1909
By L. C. Page & Company
(INCORPORATED)
——
All rights reserved

First Impression, May, 1909

Electrotyped and Printed at
THE COLONIAL PRESS:
C. H. Simonds & Co., Boston, U.S.A.

CHAPTER   PAGE
I. The Way about Italy 1
II. Of Italian Men and Manners 23
III. Chianti and Macaroni 41
IV. Italian Roads and Routes 60
V. In Liguria 81
VI. The Riviera di Levante 108
VII. On Tuscan Roads 124
VIII. Florentine Backgrounds 144
IX. The Road to Rome 164
X. The Campagna and Beyond 181
XI. La Bella Napoli 196
XII. The Beautiful Bay of Naples 207
XIII. Across Umbria to the Adriatic 225
XIV. By Adriatic’s Shore 237
XV. On the Via Æmilia 260
XVI. I Venetia 277
XVII. Through Italian Lakeland 309
XVIII. Milan and the Plains of Lombardy 333
XIX. Turin and the Alpine Gateways 346
XX. From the Italian Lakes to the Riviera 360
  Index: A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, L, M, N, O, P, Q, R, S, T, U, V, Z 371

PAGE
In Bologna (See page 266) Frontispiece
Map of Italy facing 2
Italy in the XVIII Century (map) 24
Barberino di Mugello facing 26
A Chianti Seller facing 32
A Wayside Trattoria facing 42
Road Map of North Italy facing 72
Italian Road Signs 77
Profile Road Map, Bologna—Florence 79
Palazzo Doria, Genoa facing 100
Genoa (map) 101
Sun Dial, Genoa 106
Rapallo facing 110
Rapallo and its Gulf (map) 111
Lucca (arms) 122
On a Tuscan Highway facing 124
Florence and Its Palaces (map) 134
Torch-holders, Palazzo Strozzi, Florence 136
Palazzo Vecchio, Florence facing 136
A Lantern, Palazzo Strozzi, Florence 137
San Gimignano facing 138
Volterra (map) 140
Villa Palmieri (diagram) 148
Fiesole 150
Palazzo Della Signoria, Siena facing 164
Orvieto facing 168
Arms of Various Papal Families 172
Castle of Sant’Angelo, Rome facing 174
Palazzo Vaticano (diagram) 175
The Borgia Window, Rome facing 176
Papal Arms of Caesar Borgia 177
Arms of a Medicis Prelate 178
Villa Medici, Rome facing 178
Subiaco facing 190
Villa d’Este, Tivoli facing 192
Hadrian’s Villa (diagram) 194
Naples (diagram) 196
Castello dell’Ovo, Naples facing 202
The Bay of Naples (map) 208
Ischia facing 212
Lava Beds of Vesuvias (map) 213
The Excavations of Pompeii (diagram) 216
The Environs of Pompeii facing 218
Assisi (arms) 228
Assisi: Its Walls, Castle, and Church (diagram) 229
Architectural Detail, Perugia facing 230
Palazzo Ducale, Urbino facing 232
Brindisi; The Terminal Column of the Appian Way 240
Trajan’s Arch, Ancona facing 242
Castel Malatesta, Rimini facing 244
Palazzo di Teodorico, Ravenna facing 248
Column to Gaston de Foix, Ravenna 249
The Madonna of Chioggia 252
Borgia Arms 254
Ferrara facing 254
Casa del Petrarca, Arqua 259
Bologna (diagram) 267
The Leaning Towers of Bologna facing 268
Parma (arms) 272
Piacenza (diagram) 275
Padua (arms) 278
In Padua facing 280
Palaces of the Grand Canal, Venice (diagram) 289
The so-Called “House of Desdemona,” Venice 290
Asolo 296
Vicenza (diagram) 300
Vicenza facing 302
Seal of Verona 304
Pallazzo Ducal, Mantua 311
On the Lago Di Garda facing 314
Castle of Brescia facing 316
Bergamo facing 318
The Italian Lakes (map) 319
On the Lago Di Como facing 322
Cadenabbia 324
On the Lago Di Maggiore facing 326
Orta facing 330
A Lombard Fête facing 334
The Ancient Castle of Milan facing 338
The Iron Crown of Lombardy 345
Palazzo Madonna, Turin facing 346
On the Strada, Moncenisio facing 350
Castle of Fénis facing 358

Italian Highways and Byways
From a Motor Car

CHAPTER I

THE WAY ABOUT ITALY

ONE travels in Italy chiefly in search of the picturesque, but in Florence, Rome, Naples, Venice or Milan, and in the larger towns lying between, there is, in spite of the romantic association of great names, little that appeals to one in a personal sense. One admires what Ruskin, Hare or Symonds tells one to admire, gets a smattering of the romantic history of the great families of the palaces and villas of Rome and Florence, but absorbs little or nothing of the genuine feudal traditions of the background regions away from the well-worn roads.
Along the highways and byways runs the itinerary of the author and illustrator of this book, and they have thus been able to view many of the beauties and charms of the countryside which have been unknown to most travellers in Italy in these days of the modern railway.
Alla Campagna was our watchword as we set out to pass as many of our Italian days and nights as possible in places little celebrated in popular annals, a better way of knowing Italy than one will ever know it when viewed simply from the Vatican steps or Frascati’s gardens.
The palaces and villas of Rome, Florence and Venice are known to most European travellers—as they know Capri, Vesuvius or Amalfi; but of the grim castles of Ancona, of Rimini and Ravenna, and of the classic charms of Taormina or of Sarazza they know considerably less; and still less of Monte Cristo’s Island, of Elba, of Otranto, and of the little hidden-away mountain towns of the Alps of Piedmont and the Val d’Aoste.
The automobile, as a means of getting about, has opened up many old and half-used byways, and the automobile traveller of to-day may confidently assert that he has come to know the countryside of a beloved land as it was not even possible for his grandfathers to know it.
The Italian tour may be made as a conducted tour, as an educative tour, as a mere butterfly tour (as it often has been), or as a honeymoon trip, but the reason for its making is always the same; the fact that Italy is a soft, fair, romantic land where many things have existed, and still exist, that may be found nowhere else on earth.
The romance of travel and the process of gathering legends and tales of local manners and customs is in no way spoiled because of modern means of travel. Many a hitherto unexploited locality, with as worthy a monumental shrine as many more celebrated, will now become accessible, perhaps even well known.
The pilgrim goes to Italy because of his devotion to religion, or to art or architecture, and, since this is the reason for his going, it is this reason, too, which has caused the making of more travel books on Italy than on all other continental countries combined. There are some who affect only “old masters” or literary shrines, others who crave palaces or villas, and yet others who haunt the roulette tables of Monte Carlo, Biarritz, or some exclusive Club in the “Eternal City.” European travel is all things to all men.
The pilgrims that come to Italy in increasing numbers each year are not all born and bred of artistic tastes, but the expedition soon brings a glimmer of it to the most sordid soul that ever took his amusements apart from his edification, and therein lies the secret of pleasurable travel for all classes. The automobilist should bear this in mind and not eat up the roadway through Æmilia at sixty miles an hour simply because it is possible. There are things to see en route, though none of your speeding friends have ever mentioned them. Get acquainted with them yourself and pass the information on to the next. That is what the automobile is doing for modern travel—more than the stage or the railway ever did, and more than the aeroplane ever will!
One does not fo

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